Any hotel can fill itself with midcentury-modern furniture and call itself cool, but there’s something more deeply transportive about the JFK-era vibe of this lobby bar. For one, as the austere exterior will tell you, this was originally a federal building from the 1960s—the bones speak truth. As do the barmen in crisp white jackets behind the tiny five-seat brass bar. The drinks, which come in substantial glassware, are precise and beautifully brooding—the Dark as Night, a cognac-based cocktail with walnut liqueur, is as moody as